The unsung heroes of Malaysia

Originally posted on The Malaysian Insider under the title “Reconnecting with one’s identity” on 24 April 2011.

The year was 1996.

I was 15 years younger and also 15kg lighter (if only they are both inversely related).

My only worries were to pass my examinations and for the boy whom I had a huge crush on to give me his time of the day. In my mind, we would have beautiful babies together.

The thought of returning home never occurred to me but it didn’t stop me from being an active member of the Malaysian Student Society. United Kingdom seemed far better off then.

Although it has been 15 years, I still think about the days when we, the Malaysian students, put up a swashbuckling performance at the annual Malaysian Evening gala. We did Malaysia proud by being hospitable, warm and friendly ambassadors. Our enthusiasm and solidarity were infectious and we built friendships that transcend ethnicity and religious affiliations through those years.

I miss the days when the Malay-Boys-Who-Can-Sing-And-Play-Music living downtown would invite my friend and I for home-cooked fish head curries. Apparently the fishmonger next door were selling the discarded heads for peanuts and like monkeys, we devoured every single morsel with much gusto and appreciation.

We also had a Malay friend who could measure the saltiness of his girlfriend’s satay sauce just by sniffing at it. Hers was the best satay sauce I have ever tasted. To reciprocate, my friend and I would make popiah and to our great surprise, they were well-received.

I mustn’t forget our one and only Indian Malaysian student. He was known as the quiet and shy guy who was joined at the hips by two other Chinese Malaysian students. They were really nice because they never forget to celebrate my birthday when I was alone during Easter holiday.

That was the only time when I remember being Malaysian.

15 years later, I am older and the questions running through my mind are of a different nature.

Would my marriage survive? Will I become a mother? Have I done enough for my ageing parents? Would I be able to afford a vacation in the North Pole so that I can see the polar bears? Would I die for my country? Would Malaysia ever change?

At 35, I have become cynical and resentful of so many things in life. What is certain is that the years gone by have served as a cruel reminder of how brutal time and poor eating habit can be.

Having worked and lived in four war-torn countries has somehow contributed a lot to my increasing lack of faith and respect for humankind. Although Malaysia is not at war, apathetic Malaysians combined with a morally corrupted government do very little to change my perception of human beings.

At the end of the day, I deduce we’re all just the same.

That changed on 2 April 2011 at Fort Cornwallis, Penang.

Perhaps it’s true that everything does happen for a reason. What happened for me was to leave my cushy life as an expatriate’s wife and to accept the challenging task of helping Malaysians understand the Federal Constitution. And the reason? I desperately needed to restore my faith as a Malaysian again.

The “Rock for Rights” concert organised by Bar Council’s MyConstitution Campaign, Saya Anak Bangsa Malaysia and Frinjan on 2 April, reminded me of the semangat Malaysia I felt 15 years ago, but only better as I didn’t have to be in a foreign land to feel that I belong.

While working on this project, I got to know many Malaysians from very different walks of life and was privileged to learn from them. Many of them are either students or hold regular jobs such as teaching, marketing, public relations, writing, computer programming, event planning, environmentalist and lawyer.

Being an amateur who struggled to put together a concert, the bands and those involved were understanding, patient and forgiving. Many of them were just grateful that they had this rare opportunity to share their artistic talent as musicians and message as Malaysians. They are clearly no ordinary bands as they were not driven by monetary gain but only by their passion as musicians and Malaysians.

I asked Darren Teh from An Honest Mistake why they had decided to participate in this project.

He replied “We want to bring our music to the next level which is to cause change in someone’s life. Being part of this project helps us achieve that. When people listen to our song and knowing the reason behind the lyrics, it helps them connect with us ‘emotionally’. Besides that, knowing that we are adding value to the community, raising awareness of our rights and educating them through music – we are going beyond the boundaries of music, beyond just simple listening pleasure. We are proud to have been part of this entire project.”

I asked Petak Daud, an 18 year-old musician who stunned the crowd with his soft acoustic renditions of songs that speak loudly against the abuse of power by the police and government, what gave him the courage to sing such songs. He said, “The situation surrounding us is becoming worse. We’re like decomposing fleshes which in a matter of time will disappear altogether. This is my mission. I want to wake Malaysians up so that they can see the abuse taking place in this country.”

If a seemingly shy 18 year-old boy who unwittingly scratches his hair while he speaks on stage has the courage to sing such songs, why are most of us still keeping silent?

Azmyl Yunor has a theory – shopping malls and capitalism. According to him, Malaysia’s rapid economic growth over the last three decades has metamorphosised us from being Malaysians to creatures who are continuously motivated by economic gain above everything else. Before we could truly understand who we are as a nation, we occupy our time by shopping.

I told Azmyl that I was shocked by how passive the crowd was at Fort Cornwallis. While some of us cheered and danced to the music, many kept their seats warm by just watching without any expression on their faces. He smiled at my observation and shared his other theory of self-censorship.

Decades of living in a country where preventive laws and religious teachings are imposed have taught us that freedom of expression is vulgar and wrong. He said music is a form of escape. He wouldn’t be caught dead screaming on top of his lungs and rolling on the floor under normal circumstances.

The night was high when Barcode got everyone up to sing the Negaraku. I was exhilarated and I sang our anthem like how most kids would sing to Justin Bieber these days. And like the cool night breeze that provided us with much comfort, the affirmation that I love Malaysia came.

Ammar Khairi from Maharajah Commission shared similar sentiments. He said, “I sincerely hope that there will be many more patriotic souls in Malaysia as opposed to nationalists or even worse, haters. The difference is, a patriotic person would give out his heart and soul for the country and yet continually criticise constructively for a better Malaysia, whereas nationalistic pride is nothing more than waving the flag and declare your allegiance blindly and accepting everything that is told to you by the powers-that-be as the supreme truth.”

Later that night, the party continued. We, the Malaysians, shared and celebrated our identity by laughing and dancing the night away. Fellow columnist, June Rubis who flew in all the way from Sarawak to be our emcee (and to be starved as she emceed for 12 hours straight), screamed on top of her lungs, “I love you, you and you!” She whispered to me and said she would do it all over again.

I stayed high for the next couple of days. 15 years is a long wait after all.

Technorati Tags: Rock for Rights,Bar Council,MyConstitution Campaign,Frinjan,Saya Anak Bangsa Malaysia,Azmyl Yunor,An Honest Mistake,Maharajah Commission,Petak Daud,Barcode,Fort Cornwallis,Penang,June Rubis

Many days and weeks later: Silence of the Lim

I blame it on the hotel suite at the Residence Inn, Marriott and the Office of License Collector in St. Louis. The day I moved into the suite, unpacked my 2 suitcases and began to make myself feel at home, that was the day when I stopped blogging.

It’s like when I saw all my clothes hanging on the wardrobe rack, arranged in the order of warm, formal, work and casual; and the rest folded neatly away in the countless of drawers in the bedroom, I kind of sub-consciously told myself that there is no urgency to pen down my daily journal as religiously as when I was in Washington DC.

Yeah, a bedroom suite with ample of storage space and living out of a suitcase is bad.

Picture above: The St. Louis City Hall

On top of that, living the unaccustomed life-style of a “foreign dignitary” (believe me, I wouldn’t like to be referred to as that but for Michael and Charlotte who insist on calling us that), courtesy of our hosts at the Office of License Collector, has made it impossible for me to keep track of what had happened in the last few weeks. By the time I wanted to blog about something new that had happened on the day before, it had become old news.

At the risk of sounding as if I am having too much of a good time (although I insist on calling them socio-cultural activities), I’m just going to provide a very summarised version of some memorable events that had taken place, or will be taking place:

• Attend the St. Louis Development Corporation (SLDC) luncheon at the Renaissance Hotel;
• Field passes to watch the St. Louis RAMS versus San Diego CHARGES game at the Edward Jones Dome;
• Attend the 100 Black Men masquerade ball at the Hyatt River Front Hotel;
• Attend Sunday service at the Prince of Peace Church;
• Shopping at Macy’s, Saks @ 5th Avenue, the Mills, etc.
• Dining at various local eateries and soul food;
• Attend the National Association for the Advancement of Coloured People (NAACP) gala at the Millennium Hotel;
• VIP seats for America’s Got Talent live show at the Fox Theater;
• Going up the Gateway Arch;
• St. Louis Zoo at Forest Park;
• St. Louis Science Centre;
• Live jazz and blues at BB’s, South Broadway;
• Trip to Jefferson City, capital of Missouri State;
• Trip to Chicago;
• Attend Friday Shabbat at the Temple of Emmanuel;
• Attend the Rally for Sanity, Gateway Arch.
• Halloween with the St. Louis BLUES hockey team against Atlanta THRASHERS at the Scottrade Centre;
• Visiting legendary baseball player Lou Brock at his home; and

the list can go on…..

Wonder whether I do any work or serious stuff at all? Of course, I do. Who am I kidding?

In addition to the countless of meetings with government and elected officials, non-profit and business communities, I have been working with the American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU) for Eastern-Missouri on their campaign to push for the passing of a State Bill to bring the police from state to local control of what is known as Proposition L (Prop L). A referendum on Prop L will be carried out simultaneously at the mid-term election next Tuesday.

Above: A rally that was held outside the St. Louis City Hall in conjunction with National Day Against Police Brutality on 22 October 2010

Above: Doing some community work with Mission Continues, a non-profit organisation which aims to help former war veterans to find purpose and meaning in their lives again.

And if you think some of these activities are not serious enough, here’s a photo which will prove it.

Standing on the glass floor at the top of the Willis Tower (formerly known as Sears Tower), Chicago, has got to be some serious stuff, man!

Anyway, I’ve already got some articles planned for my TMI column. Do watch out for that.

 

 

 

 

 

Photo on the left, courtesy of CW Lim.

Day 1: Transit in Incheon International Airport, Seoul

I’ve learned one thing today: No matter how much you think you’re prepared, you’re never 100% prepared.

Left the apartment at around 8pm in an absolute rush to get to the airport by 9pm. Flight on Korean Air was to depart KLIA at 11:30pm. I initially thought I would have time  to drop by at the post office and then picked up my dry cleaning, but I ended up failing to say goodbye to my cat.

Picture top left: Aerial view over Seoul, South Korea.

No matter how much one has travelled, there is this always this nagging anxiety of something dreadful about to happen: What if the car break down and I miss my flight? What if I left my passport at home? What if I left my purse at home and I have to pay for excess baggage? Wait…how am I going to survive a foreign country without any money or plastics with me?

Well, thankfully, none of these happened to me. Thanks to hubby who tried his best to get me prepared.

Korean Air was interesting. I find the service most efficient. The stewardesses were quick to collect used plastic cups soon after they served the usual water or juices. What I am not accustomed to was the fact that the airline did not serve food until 1 1/2 hours before arrival at Seoul!

Instead, as soon as everyone was settled, the stewardess announced duty free shopping immediately. The duty free catalogue is easily the size of a double edition of Marie Claire magazine. Perhaps shopping is a huge Korean tradition. While roaming around Incheon Airport, I can’t help but feel as if I am in Suria KLCC. I’ve never seen such a large concentration of designer clothing lines; i.e. Gucci, Prada, Chanel, Bvlgari, Salvatore Ferragamo, etc. in one small place!

So, now I’m here sitting at the rest lounge waiting for my 3-hour transit to Washington DC. I think I spent my time quite well. Had some time to do a brief cultural activity of making Korean key chain, had my Korean hot breakfast and blog.

Picture bottom left: Free session on how to make Korean key chain at the Korean Traditional Cultural Experience Centre, Incheon International Airport.

Picture bottom right: A Korean doll at the same centre.

It’s 30 minutes before boarding time and I think it’s time to go. Can’t wait to catch up on movies on the flight.

Discovering Phnom Penh in a few hours

As soon as I heard a new cafe serving six types of freshly roasted coffee beans has just opened up in Phnom Penh,  I decided to try it out yesterday. Being a coffee lover (note, not addict), I was anxious to see for myself whether it’s as good as what the review has said.

As I was riding in a tuk-tuk on my way to Cafe Symphonies (#81, Sisowath Quay), we went past a busy and crowded crossroads between Street 13 and Street 108. I haven’t really been there before but the atmosphere was a harbinger of something interesting to come. There was so much action going on judging from the throngs of people moving around purposefully. I made a mental note to trace back to the place right after I had my breakfast and a cup of freshly brewed coffee.

Alas! Cafe Symphonies does not serve food and I was not willing to drink a strong cup of coffee with an empty stomach. But as the review said, the lovely and intoxicating aroma of roasted coffee was worth the short whiff. I told the lady that I would come back after having my lunch, but I didn’t. Street 110 was too much of an excitement for a day and coffee would just send me right over the top.

Anyway, I was glad that I didn’t leave my photo camera behind. As I walked back to that crossroad, I was pleasantly surprised by the assault of local scent, noise, taste and colour at every corner. Most tourists or expats would normally stop by the tonnes of restaurants, cafes, bars and hotels lining Sisowath Quay (aka Riverfront) and only a few manage to walk further down on Street 110 towards Street 13. I guess I’m one of the lucky few.

I was glad that I stumbled upon this path less travelled by many of us. If you are here in Phnom Penh and plan to do some walk-about around the city, you might want to consider this itinerary.

0900: Breakfast at the Amazon Bistro (#8, Street 102)

Start off your morning tour with a hearty breakfast and Jazz and Bossa Nova music at this small bistro situated at a relatively quiet street. The old buildings with French louvers are rather quaint and charming. For just US$5, you get a full breakfast of scrambled eggs, croissant, toast with butter and jam, a cup of Vietnamese coffee and orange juice (not fresh though). However, if you prefer to go native, there is a restaurant just right next to the Amazon Bistro serving rice, noodles with mixed vegetables and meat although Amazon Bistro serves local cuisine as well.

 

0945: Market area on the crossroad of Street 13 and 110

Before proceeding to the market, it’s worth stopping by at the infamous Green Vespa pub (#95, Sisowath Quay), if only just to have a look at the monochromatic pictures of beautiful international actresses posing with different models of vespa mounted on the walls.  Go on and have a draft beer if you feel like it, especially if you’re on vacation.

Unfortunately, I felt that the owner wasn’t too friendly. Perhaps, all the fame has gone into his head and the place is mostly frequented by expats, especially those of the middle-aged, beer-bellied type.

Before heading towards Street 106, walk past across the Bopha Phnom Penh Titanic Restaurant and enjoy the view of its strikingly beautiful traditional Khmer roof.  Along Street 106, you’ll see an old laundry shop on your right. Walk further down and turn left. You’ll reach the crossroad of Street 13 (see picture below) and 108. Remember to look to your right and left before crossing the road.

This open market is rather small compared to the dozens of others around the city. It might just as well since the bigger market can be quite daunting especially if you’re not used to the heat and crowd.

Since it’s open, you can observe pedlars selling pickled fruits, spiced cockles, broomsticks and sugarcane juice on their bicycles or carts. Otherwise, watch the bored look of cyclo-riders and fruit vendors staring into vacant spaces as they wait patiently for the arrival of customers. Who says business is easy when the economy is down?

 

        

As you can see below, Cambodia is bestowed with a tropical climate which makes it a haven for growing fruits. Here, you can find almost any fruits you would  normally find in other parts of South East Asia (bananas, rambutans, durians, mangosteens, dragonfruits, oranges, etc.), but they somehow look juicier, fresher and I would suppose cheaper as well. It’s true that bananas that are as big as your little finger are the sweetest. Don’t forget to pick up some lotus flowers along the way. The subtle but alluring fragrance beats any synthetic air freshener anytime.

 

Walking about in the heat will no doubt leave you thirsty and perhaps peckish as well. Do try the freshly squeezed sugarcane juice and some of the local snacks such as grilled fish or cockles. The sugarcane juice is normally mixed with a squeeze of fresh lime juice to tame the sweetness, giving it a refreshing quench. If you’re concerned about the hygiene, it might reassure you that I’ve not had any unwanted incident yet. Besides, the smell of grilled fish will most likely make it difficult to resist.

 

1100: Shop along Street 110 and arrive at Sisowath Quay (aka Riverfront)

Now that you have check out the market area, it’s time to do some shopping indoors. Turn back and walk along Street 110 towards the Riverfront. If you’re a knife lover, you’ll be happy to find Citadel (#11, Street 110), an internationally known shop specializing in all kinds of knives produced locally at a workshop situated near the international airport.

Once finished, walk just a few steps further and you’re back at the Riverfront. Take a right turn and walk along the rows of shops, cafes and restaurants. Not far away, you’ll come across a cookie shop called Camory Cookies (#167, Sisowath Quay), what they claim as the best cookie in town. There is a small table at the entrance for you to sample the different types of cookies sold. The oatmeal with cashew nut and palm sugar with honey are simply delicious! If you decide to buy some (US$3/10 pieces), 50% of what you pay would go towards an orphanage.

1200: Lunch with a twist at the Mekong River Restaurant (#1, Corner of Street 118 & Sisowath Quay)

Situated at the crossroad between Street 118 and Sisowath Quay, the Mekong River restaurant is rather special for two things. Firstly, it plays two documentaries in English and French daily at scheduled time with a charge of US$3/person (please call 012494705 for the schedule). Now, watching Pol Pot:The History of Genocide and The Mines in Cambodia and the World may not go down well with your food, but you can always catch the documentaries later on in the evening.

Secondly, you are able to try snake wine at the restaurant (definitely not for the faint-hearted or animal activists). I have a strong feeling that most people will be able to swallow the documentaries easier than the wine. If you like them, you can buy some  at 3 different sizes, selling at USD$6.50, 10.50 and 16.50 each, they all come with a baby cobra and scorpion stuffed into recycled Hennessy Cognac bottles.

 

1315: Continue shopping along Sisowath Quay

Once you’re stuffed, burn off some calories by continuing to walk along the Riverfront. Take a few minutes to look at the different silk products at the KNN Cambodia Arts and Crafts (#169E, Sisowath Quay). If you feel like doing something for the environment, it sells some pretty creative bags and note pads made out of recycled materials.

For men, if have gone to Indonesia or Malaysia but failed to buy some cotton batik shirts, you can find some along the way. Do remember to look up because they are hung high up above the shops and are easy to miss.

1400: End your tour with a massage at Islands Massage (approaching corner of Street 130)

From the exterior, this massage place doesn’t look too enticing especially when compared to so many other spas along the Riverfront. However, with a great bargain at US$8/1 hour full body oil massage, you’ll be pleased to know that the massages are in fact really good and it comes with an adventure as well. You’ll be brought into a really dark room with only the soft music guiding your senses and right there, you’re asked to strip. It’s up to you whether you choose to strip down to the bare minimum or retain your underclothing.

Don’t expect a massage table because there are just mattresses lining the whole floor (so yes, it’s not an individual room but a shared common room). As soon as you’re asked to lie down, the masseur immediately treats you to an hour of blissful kneading, pounding and twisting of your body in total darkness. I assure you that it may seem alarming at first but once you allow your sense of adventure to take over, you’ll be wanting to go back for more. The good thing is, only ladies are allowed (sorry, guys!).

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I find that whether you are living in Phnom Penh or just visiting, the city has the ability to continuously surprise you. Phnom Penh is not just about the pagodas, Royal Palace, the Killing Field or the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. All you need is to walk around the city and you’re bound to stumble across a street that is filled with a lot of local flavour.

A different kind of shopping in Phnom Penh

They say that all nice things come in small packages. In Cambodia, it’s all small things come in nice packages.

Shopping can be really fun in Phnom Penh although it will take you several tuk-tuk rides from one place to another since there are not many malls. Even then, the malls are not very interesting and don’t really house many shops that sell nice and good quality stuff.

Phnom Penh has seen a mushrooming of small boutique shops that sell Cambodian-made silk products, clothing, accessories, home decoration, household upholstery and beddings, arts and crafts, etc. in the past few years. Although most of the shops are really small but the items sold are usually handmade, unique and pretty. Some might be a bit too pricey (all in US dollars) but it’s worth the purchase as they are usually high in quality and not made for mass production. In addition to this, many of the shops are operated by locals and profits are channelled towards funding NGOs and creating sustainable livelihood for the communities.

I have a friend who came to Phnom Penh not too long ago just for the shopping. She has fallen in love with a particular boutique selling silk women’s clothing. Needless to say, she went on a shopping frenzy and I can understand why. The hand-woven silk, satin and organza materials feel rich to the touch, the colours are not the usual bright and loud type and the design and cutting is made to fit any body type. They provide free altercation if you have enough time here. A purchase will set you back quite a lot but if you can afford it, as my friend does, a dress will make quite an impression at a cocktail party in New York City, for instance.

Anyway, I’ve done some shopping lately in Phnom Penh and what really interests me is that many of these boutique shops provide lovely and environmentally friendly packaging when you purchase their goods. Even when you buy lotus flowers at the local market, they are wrapped in fresh lotus leaves! This makes the shopping experience truly nicer and if you’re planning to buy someone a gift, there is no need for gift wrapping, which means more thumbs up for the environment.

Here are just some pictures to illustrate what makes shopping different in Cambodia.

This is a gift I bought for a friend from Elsewhere (Street 278). It comes with a lovely baby blue cloth pouch.

Inside this palm leaves container are some napkin holders. This is bought at Sophanna Boutique (#24, Street 144/49). The container can be used again for gifts or to hold other small items; stationery, letters, toiletries, etc.

These are famous Kampot peppers and palm sugar. You can find them in most supermarkets or souvenir shops. They usually come in such wrappings even if they are not meant as souvenir items.

Bags made out of left-over cloth from Bliss (#29, Street 240). They come in different sizes depending on the size of your purchase. Bliss operates as a spa but also sell beauty products made from natural ingredients, cotton clothes, accessories, handbags and lovely beddings.

Left: A polka-dot dress I bought in Orange River (#361E, Sisowath Quay, two stores away from the FCC) wrapped snugly in a salmon pink organza pouch. Right: A tiger balm with steel applier in a bamboo box. This is bought at the Phnom Penh International airport. You can find this in other handicrafts shops in Phnom Penh city.

These beautiful multi-coloured silk coasters are complimentary gifts from Orange River. Again, many shops here utilize their materials efficiently. Excess materials are not tossed away but creatively made into small decorative items, hand carrier bags or free gifts.

This lotus leave from the flowers I bought is used as a natural and beautiful “plate” for fresh food ingredients and fruits. They really spice up your kitchen.